Sunday, June 15, 2008
Friday, June 13, 2008
Weeks 8 & 9
"one in the same"
"Surprise me"
I think these are surprising because the person looking at them isn't always quite sure what exactly is going on, so there's an element of surprise to the photos.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
everything
order
three, solution (to darkness), revolution, neon, color, light, spring, one in the same, surprise!
three, solution (to darkness), revolution, neon, color, light, spring, one in the same, surprise!
Sunday, June 8, 2008
week 9 surprise me redooo
this is surprising because the cars are moving but they look still and it makes a pretty dirty city look clean because of the tree's.
hey, check this out!
Pinhole Day!
save your cameras so you can participate next year!
(im kind of sad i didnt find this earlier.... sorry!!)
save your cameras so you can participate next year!
(im kind of sad i didnt find this earlier.... sorry!!)
4th marking period assignments
here they are again, just in case....
PhotoBlog Assignments
*these are due by midnight of the due date. nothing will be accepted late for this marking period. please label the title of your post with the week and the topic.*
and please take new photos each week, photos of last summers vacation are not good enough! you will be graded on effort, creativity, composition, and creativity!!
Week 1. Due: April 13
“three”
Week 2. Due: April 20
“light”
Week 3. Due: April 27
“solution”
Week 4. Due: May 4
“revolution”
Week 5. Due: May 11
“neon”
Week 6. Due: May 18
“color”
Week 7. Due: May 25
“spring”
Week 8. Due: June 1
“one in the same”
Week 9. Due: June 8
“surprise me”
again, nothing will be accepted late, do not slack off!!! and make sure you label each post accordingly!
thanks!!!
PhotoBlog Assignments
*these are due by midnight of the due date. nothing will be accepted late for this marking period. please label the title of your post with the week and the topic.*
and please take new photos each week, photos of last summers vacation are not good enough! you will be graded on effort, creativity, composition, and creativity!!
Week 1. Due: April 13
“three”
Week 2. Due: April 20
“light”
Week 3. Due: April 27
“solution”
Week 4. Due: May 4
“revolution”
Week 5. Due: May 11
“neon”
Week 6. Due: May 18
“color”
Week 7. Due: May 25
“spring”
Week 8. Due: June 1
“one in the same”
Week 9. Due: June 8
“surprise me”
again, nothing will be accepted late, do not slack off!!! and make sure you label each post accordingly!
thanks!!!
also, it has come to my attention that some of you have been having issues with not being able to sign in at all, where your email and/or password is not recognized. for this technical difficulty, i do apologize. however, it is completely beyond my control. if this is the case for you, do not come in with an excuse on monday. email your photo to me as a jpeg attachment, including the assignment title, and i will post it for you. i trust that all of you are savvy enough to figure out how to do that properly before the deadline. again, my email is sergonisa@yahoo.com.
please be sure you are taking the time to critique your classmates photos.
i hope you are all enjoying the heat wave, monday promises to be a wonderful day for pinholes, according to weather.com
see you tomorrow!
please be sure you are taking the time to critique your classmates photos.
i hope you are all enjoying the heat wave, monday promises to be a wonderful day for pinholes, according to weather.com
see you tomorrow!
final exam
it seems that many of you have "lost" the handouts, even though you have a binder for all of them. so, here they are, for your viewing pleasure. ps, it might be a good idea to be prepared for a notebook check this week. pss, it might also be a good idea for some of you to explain WHY photos of sunsets and flowers are surprising.... just a thought...
and another reminder: all of your work is due by friday june 13. please do not make me beg you to turn work in. if it isnt in the proper file folder, it doesnt exist, and i will not accept it after friday.
Panorama (pr. pa-no-ra'mÉ™):
A wide, unbroken view of an entire surrounding area. A picture or series of pictures representing a horizontally continuous scene, either exhibited all at once, or exhibited one at a time by being unrolled and passed before the audience.
The word "panorama" is derived from the Greek words "pan" (all) and "horama" (view). The word was coined in the late 18th century for a technical form of topographical landscape. The panorama was patented as an idea in 1787 by the artist Robert Barker (Irish). "The granting of the patent indicates that this art form was new," Stephen Oettermann wrote in The Panorama: History of a Mass Medium, Zone Books, 1997. "It came to be applied generally to mean a circular vista, an overview (from an elevated point) of a real landscape or cityscape."
The 1830s and 1840s were the heyday of the panorama. The craze subsided in the 1860s, had a short-lived revival in the 1880s, and was supplanted entirely by moving pictures.
To Do: Using the provided color film, shoot a series of photographs to create your own panoramic view. You will also complete a digital version, which you will “stitch” together on the computers.
• Make sure each shot slightly overlaps the previous
• Stand in the same place or use a tripod
• Make sure all the photos are the set at the same exposure
• Take your film to be developed, ask for doubles in a matte (NOT glossy) finish.
• Try shooting vertically
• Try different subjects! It doesn't have to be just a landscape or city scape, be creative!
• For the digital panorama:
1. at least 10 images
2. must include at least one person
Prints Due: March 17th
Panorama Due: April 4th
Digital Panorama Due: April 18th
Digital Photography
What to do first:
➔ Student Assignments
➔ Create New Folder
➔ Your Full name and grade
➔ In your folder, create 3 new folders
➔ your full name: originals, works in progress, finals
Some things to remember:
• Do not leave any files on the desktop, they will be deleted! (you must save them to your folders!)
• Do not bring any sort of food or drinks anywhere near the computers, they will explode and you will owe Mr. King $1,000,000
• Do not play around with photobooth or the internets.
• If you have nothing constructive to do on the computer, go read a book or organize the filters.
• Follow all instructions carefully, if your files are not saved properly, etc, they will not be accepted or graded.
• Adjust your image, then save as in your WIP folder. Never work on the Original file!
Image Adjustment:
Before doing anything to your image, make the following adjustments in this order:
1. Crop & Adjust Image Size
• Use cropping tool to eliminate unwanted areas and to adjust the composition
• To adjust image size and resolution go to Image → Image Size
• you want your image to be 300 res 8x10in
2. Levels
To adjust levels go to Image → Adjust → Levels
• Adjust highlights by moving the white triangle on the right of the histogram to the left to about where the mountain starts.
• Adjust the mid tones by moving the gray triangle to the left or right.
• Adjust the shadows by moving the black triangle to the right.
3. Sharpen
To adjust sharpness, go to Filter → Sharpen → Unsharp Mask
• Adjust the amount between 50 and 1150%, depending on resolution
• Adjust the radius between 0 and 4 pixels
Clone Stamp: this is useful if you have dust/scratches on negatives or prints that you scanned.
The clone stamp tool takes a sample of an image, which you can then apply over another image or part of the same image. Each stroke of the tool paints on more of the sample.
To use the clone stamp tool:
1. Select the clone stamp tool , and do the following in the options bar:
• Choose a brush and set brush options.
2. Specify a blending mode, opacity, and flow.
3. Determine how you want to align the sampled pixels. If you select Aligned, you can release the mouse button without losing the current sampling point. As a result, the sampled pixels are applied continuously, no matter how many times you stop and resume painting. If you deselect Aligned, the sampled pixels are applied from the initial sampling point each time you stop and resume painting.
4. Select Use All Layers to sample data from all visible layers; deselect Use All Layers to sample only from the active layer.
2. Set the sampling point by positioning the pointer in any open image and Option-clicking
5. Drag in the image.
After making all necessary adjustments on the original file, go File→ Save As and save it to your WIP folder as “last name assignment” (ex: “sergonis sabattier”)
When you are totally finished, flatten your image and save to your Finals folder.
sabattier effect
The Sabattier Effect results in a partial or complete reversal of image tones on either film or paper emulsion, as well as distinctive outlines (known as Mackie lines, after Alexander Mackie who first described them) which border adjacent highlight and shadow areas. It was first discovered in 1862 by Armand Sabattier as a result of an accidental exposure to light during development of a wet collodion plate, producing a partial reversal of tone.
A Sabattier print is made by re-exposing a partially developed print to light during the processing. This gives a print both positive and negative qualities and adds "halo" like Mackie lines between adjacent highlight and shadow areas. The technique is commonly known as solarization, although, strictly speaking, solarization (which looks similar) takes place only when film is massively overexposed. The correct name for the phenomenon described here is the sabattier effect.
How to do it the old fashioned way:
1. Choose an interesting negative with good contrast.
2. Set everything up the normal way and create a test strip, select the best printing time
3. Expose a second test strip using that time, develop for about 60 seconds until the blacks have come up. Remove print from developer and place in an 8x10 tray,
4. Place the print in the tray under an empty enlarger and re-expose the test strip with 4 3-second exposures.
5. Redevelop for another 15-60 seconds, then stop, fix, and wash for the normal times.
6. Select the correct times for exposure, development, re-exposure and re-development, and create a final print.
sabattier effect using photoshop
How to:
• Choose a B&W image, adjust the image (size, levels, sharpen, clone stamp), save to WIP folder
• Create a copy of the original layer. (Do not work on the background layer!)
• Go to Image → Adjustments → Brightness/Contrast
• adjust the contrast (just like using a filter, but way easier!)
• Then go to Image → Adjustments → Curves
• click in the little pencil tool and draw a triangle
• Then click on the curvy line and make any adjustments, until you are satisfied with your image.
Now try it with another b&w image and add selective color, and try it with a color image.
Portraits
Vocab:
key light
fill light
front light
side light
back light
rim light
flash meter
hot shoe
Assignment: Shoot at least 5 portraits showing use of each of the following lighting situations: side, front, rim, Rembrandt, and at least 10 of those must show the use of a fill light. 5 portraits showing front, ¾ and profile views. And 5 each showing a wide, medium, and tight shot.
These can be in any combination, and must be labeled clearly on your contact sheet. You are required to shoot at least 25 portraits, of course you can shoot more if you wish.
PINHOLE CAMERA
Supplies:
• A light tight container
• Masking tape
• Black Paint
• X-acto knife
• Pin or needle
• Scrap Mat board
• Black tape or electrical tape
• Aluminum
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Photo paper
• Watch or timer
• Sun light
• Interesting subject matter
• Creativity
• Patience
How to:
1. Find a light tight container. Patch up any holes or cracks with mat board or tape. Do this NEATLY!
2. Paint the inside of your box and lid with black paint. Do this NEATLY! Make sure everything is covered with black paint. No NURBLEY white spots!☺ Clean brushes and palettes when you are done! Use newspaper to protect the tables.
3. Make sure your lid is tight fitting and large enough to not let ANY light through. If need be, add matboard...
4. If you are using a shoe box, find the center of one side by drawing diagonal lines from the corners. If you are using an oatmeal box, find the center of the box by measuring top to bottom.
5. Cut the opening for your “lens” in your box using an X-acto knife. Make sure the opening is centered! And it should be a ½ x ½ inch square.
6. Cut a 1½ square piece of aluminum, eyeball the center of it and use a fine point sharpie to make a teeny tiny dot to mark the center.
7. Use the needle to drill a tiny hole in the center of your aluminum, CAREFULLY!
8. Use the black tape to carefully seal all edges of the aluminum lens inside your box. Make sure the pinhole is centered within the opening you cut in your box.
9. Make a “shutter” with the black tape.
10. Load your camera IN the DARKROOM! Make sure you put the emulsion side facing towards the pinhole. Make sure your lid is fully sealed with black tape and that the shutter is CLOSED.
11. Go outside, find something awesome to take a photo of, set up your camera, open the shutter, close the shutter after a specified amount of time, take your camera back inside the darkroom, unload your paper, develop normally...
12. Fill out all the exposure info on your camera, that way you can figure out what works and what doesn't...
13. Is your image under exposed? Over exposed? Perfect?
14. Make any necessary adjustments and then create a positive contact print (like we did with the photograms)
15. Experiment...
depending on the time of day, year, weather, etc, the exposure times will vary...
try letting your subjects move, etc...
Positive Image
1. Choose your best photogram to create a positive image.
2. Once inside the darkroom, raise the enlarger and open the aperture all the way.
3. Place a test strip, emulsion side up in the contact frame. Place your negative photogram (the original one you made) face down on top of the test strip and cover with the glass. Make sure the glass is clean!
4. Make 5,10, 15, and 20 second exposures.
5. Develop your test strip and decide what the best time is for your image. Try another test strip and add more if needed.
6. Now get a full sheet of paper, emulsion side up in the frame, your negative face down on top and cover with the glass.
7. Expose for the amount of time you decided on in step 5.
8. Develop your print. Voila!! A positive!
and another reminder: all of your work is due by friday june 13. please do not make me beg you to turn work in. if it isnt in the proper file folder, it doesnt exist, and i will not accept it after friday.
Panorama (pr. pa-no-ra'mÉ™):
A wide, unbroken view of an entire surrounding area. A picture or series of pictures representing a horizontally continuous scene, either exhibited all at once, or exhibited one at a time by being unrolled and passed before the audience.
The word "panorama" is derived from the Greek words "pan" (all) and "horama" (view). The word was coined in the late 18th century for a technical form of topographical landscape. The panorama was patented as an idea in 1787 by the artist Robert Barker (Irish). "The granting of the patent indicates that this art form was new," Stephen Oettermann wrote in The Panorama: History of a Mass Medium, Zone Books, 1997. "It came to be applied generally to mean a circular vista, an overview (from an elevated point) of a real landscape or cityscape."
The 1830s and 1840s were the heyday of the panorama. The craze subsided in the 1860s, had a short-lived revival in the 1880s, and was supplanted entirely by moving pictures.
To Do: Using the provided color film, shoot a series of photographs to create your own panoramic view. You will also complete a digital version, which you will “stitch” together on the computers.
• Make sure each shot slightly overlaps the previous
• Stand in the same place or use a tripod
• Make sure all the photos are the set at the same exposure
• Take your film to be developed, ask for doubles in a matte (NOT glossy) finish.
• Try shooting vertically
• Try different subjects! It doesn't have to be just a landscape or city scape, be creative!
• For the digital panorama:
1. at least 10 images
2. must include at least one person
Prints Due: March 17th
Panorama Due: April 4th
Digital Panorama Due: April 18th
Digital Photography
What to do first:
➔ Student Assignments
➔ Create New Folder
➔ Your Full name and grade
➔ In your folder, create 3 new folders
➔ your full name: originals, works in progress, finals
Some things to remember:
• Do not leave any files on the desktop, they will be deleted! (you must save them to your folders!)
• Do not bring any sort of food or drinks anywhere near the computers, they will explode and you will owe Mr. King $1,000,000
• Do not play around with photobooth or the internets.
• If you have nothing constructive to do on the computer, go read a book or organize the filters.
• Follow all instructions carefully, if your files are not saved properly, etc, they will not be accepted or graded.
• Adjust your image, then save as in your WIP folder. Never work on the Original file!
Image Adjustment:
Before doing anything to your image, make the following adjustments in this order:
1. Crop & Adjust Image Size
• Use cropping tool to eliminate unwanted areas and to adjust the composition
• To adjust image size and resolution go to Image → Image Size
• you want your image to be 300 res 8x10in
2. Levels
To adjust levels go to Image → Adjust → Levels
• Adjust highlights by moving the white triangle on the right of the histogram to the left to about where the mountain starts.
• Adjust the mid tones by moving the gray triangle to the left or right.
• Adjust the shadows by moving the black triangle to the right.
3. Sharpen
To adjust sharpness, go to Filter → Sharpen → Unsharp Mask
• Adjust the amount between 50 and 1150%, depending on resolution
• Adjust the radius between 0 and 4 pixels
Clone Stamp: this is useful if you have dust/scratches on negatives or prints that you scanned.
The clone stamp tool takes a sample of an image, which you can then apply over another image or part of the same image. Each stroke of the tool paints on more of the sample.
To use the clone stamp tool:
1. Select the clone stamp tool , and do the following in the options bar:
• Choose a brush and set brush options.
2. Specify a blending mode, opacity, and flow.
3. Determine how you want to align the sampled pixels. If you select Aligned, you can release the mouse button without losing the current sampling point. As a result, the sampled pixels are applied continuously, no matter how many times you stop and resume painting. If you deselect Aligned, the sampled pixels are applied from the initial sampling point each time you stop and resume painting.
4. Select Use All Layers to sample data from all visible layers; deselect Use All Layers to sample only from the active layer.
2. Set the sampling point by positioning the pointer in any open image and Option-clicking
5. Drag in the image.
After making all necessary adjustments on the original file, go File→ Save As and save it to your WIP folder as “last name assignment” (ex: “sergonis sabattier”)
When you are totally finished, flatten your image and save to your Finals folder.
sabattier effect
The Sabattier Effect results in a partial or complete reversal of image tones on either film or paper emulsion, as well as distinctive outlines (known as Mackie lines, after Alexander Mackie who first described them) which border adjacent highlight and shadow areas. It was first discovered in 1862 by Armand Sabattier as a result of an accidental exposure to light during development of a wet collodion plate, producing a partial reversal of tone.
A Sabattier print is made by re-exposing a partially developed print to light during the processing. This gives a print both positive and negative qualities and adds "halo" like Mackie lines between adjacent highlight and shadow areas. The technique is commonly known as solarization, although, strictly speaking, solarization (which looks similar) takes place only when film is massively overexposed. The correct name for the phenomenon described here is the sabattier effect.
How to do it the old fashioned way:
1. Choose an interesting negative with good contrast.
2. Set everything up the normal way and create a test strip, select the best printing time
3. Expose a second test strip using that time, develop for about 60 seconds until the blacks have come up. Remove print from developer and place in an 8x10 tray,
4. Place the print in the tray under an empty enlarger and re-expose the test strip with 4 3-second exposures.
5. Redevelop for another 15-60 seconds, then stop, fix, and wash for the normal times.
6. Select the correct times for exposure, development, re-exposure and re-development, and create a final print.
sabattier effect using photoshop
How to:
• Choose a B&W image, adjust the image (size, levels, sharpen, clone stamp), save to WIP folder
• Create a copy of the original layer. (Do not work on the background layer!)
• Go to Image → Adjustments → Brightness/Contrast
• adjust the contrast (just like using a filter, but way easier!)
• Then go to Image → Adjustments → Curves
• click in the little pencil tool and draw a triangle
• Then click on the curvy line and make any adjustments, until you are satisfied with your image.
Now try it with another b&w image and add selective color, and try it with a color image.
Portraits
Vocab:
key light
fill light
front light
side light
back light
rim light
flash meter
hot shoe
Assignment: Shoot at least 5 portraits showing use of each of the following lighting situations: side, front, rim, Rembrandt, and at least 10 of those must show the use of a fill light. 5 portraits showing front, ¾ and profile views. And 5 each showing a wide, medium, and tight shot.
These can be in any combination, and must be labeled clearly on your contact sheet. You are required to shoot at least 25 portraits, of course you can shoot more if you wish.
PINHOLE CAMERA
Supplies:
• A light tight container
• Masking tape
• Black Paint
• X-acto knife
• Pin or needle
• Scrap Mat board
• Black tape or electrical tape
• Aluminum
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Photo paper
• Watch or timer
• Sun light
• Interesting subject matter
• Creativity
• Patience
How to:
1. Find a light tight container. Patch up any holes or cracks with mat board or tape. Do this NEATLY!
2. Paint the inside of your box and lid with black paint. Do this NEATLY! Make sure everything is covered with black paint. No NURBLEY white spots!☺ Clean brushes and palettes when you are done! Use newspaper to protect the tables.
3. Make sure your lid is tight fitting and large enough to not let ANY light through. If need be, add matboard...
4. If you are using a shoe box, find the center of one side by drawing diagonal lines from the corners. If you are using an oatmeal box, find the center of the box by measuring top to bottom.
5. Cut the opening for your “lens” in your box using an X-acto knife. Make sure the opening is centered! And it should be a ½ x ½ inch square.
6. Cut a 1½ square piece of aluminum, eyeball the center of it and use a fine point sharpie to make a teeny tiny dot to mark the center.
7. Use the needle to drill a tiny hole in the center of your aluminum, CAREFULLY!
8. Use the black tape to carefully seal all edges of the aluminum lens inside your box. Make sure the pinhole is centered within the opening you cut in your box.
9. Make a “shutter” with the black tape.
10. Load your camera IN the DARKROOM! Make sure you put the emulsion side facing towards the pinhole. Make sure your lid is fully sealed with black tape and that the shutter is CLOSED.
11. Go outside, find something awesome to take a photo of, set up your camera, open the shutter, close the shutter after a specified amount of time, take your camera back inside the darkroom, unload your paper, develop normally...
12. Fill out all the exposure info on your camera, that way you can figure out what works and what doesn't...
13. Is your image under exposed? Over exposed? Perfect?
14. Make any necessary adjustments and then create a positive contact print (like we did with the photograms)
15. Experiment...
depending on the time of day, year, weather, etc, the exposure times will vary...
try letting your subjects move, etc...
Positive Image
1. Choose your best photogram to create a positive image.
2. Once inside the darkroom, raise the enlarger and open the aperture all the way.
3. Place a test strip, emulsion side up in the contact frame. Place your negative photogram (the original one you made) face down on top of the test strip and cover with the glass. Make sure the glass is clean!
4. Make 5,10, 15, and 20 second exposures.
5. Develop your test strip and decide what the best time is for your image. Try another test strip and add more if needed.
6. Now get a full sheet of paper, emulsion side up in the frame, your negative face down on top and cover with the glass.
7. Expose for the amount of time you decided on in step 5.
8. Develop your print. Voila!! A positive!
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